Plastering guide
The plastering stage of a kitchen or bathroom renovation.
Plastering sits in the middle of a kitchen or bathroom renovation. Knowing what has to be finished before the board goes up, and why setting takes several visits, helps the whole job run in order.
Where plastering fits
The old linings come out first. Then the builder or carpenter sorts out any frame changes, and the plumber and electrician do their rough-in: the pipes and cables that run inside the walls before they are closed up. Once that is done, the walls and ceiling are lined with plasterboard, and in a bathroom the wet areas get moisture-resistant board.
After plastering come waterproofing and tiling in the bathroom, cabinets and benchtops in the kitchen, and then painting.
Why the order matters
Plasterboard closes up the wall. Anything that needs to be inside it, such as extra power points, tap and shower positions, a wall-hung toilet frame, or timber noggings to hold overhead cupboards, a rangehood or a towel rail, has to be in place before the board goes on. Moving a power point after the wall is set means cutting the board and patching it.
Setting takes more than one visit
Once the board is up, the joints, corners and screw heads are taped and set with compound in several coats. Each coat has to dry before the next one and before sanding. That drying time is why the plastering stage usually runs over more than one visit, and it is worth allowing for in the renovation timeline.
Kitchen and bathroom notes
In a kitchen, decide early whether the ceiling edge will be cornice or square set, because it changes how the ceiling junction is finished. In a bathroom, wet-area board is a different product from standard plasterboard; it goes in the shower, around the bath and in the other areas the plans call for, and waterproofing is a separate trade that goes on after the lining.
Preparing the space for plastering
Clearing the room of furniture and fixtures is the first step. Remove all items that could interfere with the plastering process. Ensure pathways are clear for access to all walls and ceilings. This prevents delays and allows for efficient work without needing to move items multiple times.
If the old lining is staying and only being patched or skimmed, any flaking paint or loose material has to come off first. If the room is being relined, the old lining comes out and the new sheets are fixed to the frame, so what matters is that the frame is straight and sound.
Understanding wet-area requirements
In bathrooms, moisture-resistant plasterboard is essential for areas exposed to water. This type of board is designed to withstand humidity and damp conditions. It must be used in shower enclosures, around bathtubs, and other wet zones specified in your plans.
Waterproofing is applied after the plasterboard is set. This step is separate from the plastering process but must be coordinated with the plumber. Ensure the waterproof membrane is correctly installed to protect the structure from moisture damage over time.
Deciding on ceiling edge finishes
The choice between cornice and square set affects how the ceiling meets the wall. Cornice creates a decorative border while square set provides a clean, straight line. This decision needs to be made early in the planning stage to avoid delays during installation.
Square set is often preferred for modern kitchens and bathrooms due to its simplicity and ease of maintenance. Cornice requires additional detailing and may need specific moulding to match your design style. Both options require careful alignment during the plastering phase.
Scheduling multiple visits for setting
Setting involves applying multiple coats of compound to joints and corners. Each coat must dry fully before the next is applied. This drying time is why the process usually spans more than one visit to your home.
Allowing sufficient time between visits ensures a smooth finish. Rushing the setting process can lead to cracks or uneven surfaces. Planning for these intervals helps keep your renovation timeline realistic and avoids unnecessary stress.
Material choices for ceilings and walls
Standard plasterboard is suitable for most interior walls and ceilings. For areas requiring extra strength, such as behind cabinets or near rangehoods, additional support may be needed. This is typically added during the framing stage before plasterboard is installed.
Acoustic plasterboard can be used in rooms where sound control is important. It helps reduce noise transmission between rooms. Fire-rated boards are also available for specific applications, but these are usually specified by your builder or designer.
Avoiding common mistakes
One common mistake is leaving framing changes until after plasterboard is installed. This leads to costly corrections like cutting and patching. Ensure all structural adjustments and added supports are in place before the board goes up.
Another error is rushing the setting process. Each coat needs time to dry properly. Skipping this step or applying too much compound at once results in poor adhesion and potential cracking over time.
Before the plasterer starts
- Frame changes finished
- Plumbing and electrical rough-in done
- Noggings in for cupboards, rangehoods and towel rails
- Cornice or square set decided
- Rooms clear enough to work in
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